The Perennial Kitchen

Simple Recipes for a Healthy Future

2021
Author:

Beth Dooley
Photography by Mette Nielsen

The Perennial Kitchen

Recipes and resources connect thoughtfully grown, gathered, and prepared ingredients to a healthy future—for food, farming, and humankind


In The Perennial Kitchen, James Beard Award–winning author Beth Dooley provides the context of food’s origins, along with delicious recipes, nutrition information, and tips for smart sourcing. More than a farm-to-table cookbook, this book expands the definition of “local food” to embrace regenerative agriculture, the method of growing small and large crops with ecological services.

Knowing how and where food is grown can add depth and richness to a dish, whether a meal of slow-roasted short ribs on creamy polenta, a steaming bowl of spicy Hmong soup, or a triple ginger rye cake, kissed with maple sugar, honey, and sorghum. Here James Beard Award–winning author Beth Dooley provides the context of food’s origins, along with delicious recipes, nutrition information, and tips for smart sourcing.

More than a farm-to-table cookbook, The Perennial Kitchen expands the definition of “local food” to embrace regenerative agriculture, the method of growing small and large crops with ecological services. These farming methods, grounded in a land ethic, remediate the environmental damage caused by the monocropping of corn and soybeans. In this thoughtful collection the home cook will find both recipes and insights into artisan grains, nuts, fruits, and vegetables that are delicious and healthy—and also help retain topsoil, sequester carbon, and return nutrients to the soil. Here are crops that enhance our soil, nurture pollinators and song birds, rebuild rural economies, protect our water, and grow plentifully without toxic chemicals. These ingredients are as good for the planet as they are on our plates.

Dooley explains how to stock the pantry with artisan grains, heritage dry beans, fresh flour, healthy oils, and natural sweeteners. She offers pointers on working with grass-fed beef and pastured pork and describes how to turn leftovers into tempting soups and stews. She makes the most of each season’s bounty, from fresh garlic scape pesto to roasted root vegetable hummus. Here we learn how best to use nature’s “fast foods,” the quick-cooking egg and ever-reliable chicken; how to work with alternative flours, as in gingerbread with rye or focaccia with Kernza®; and how to make plant-forward, nutritious vegan and vegetarian fare. Among other sweet pleasures, Dooley shares the closely held secret recipe from the University of Minnesota’s student association for the best apple pie. Woven throughout the recipes is the most recent research on nutrition, along with a guide to sources and information that cuts through the noise and confusion of today’s food labels and trends.

Beth Dooley looks back into ingredients’ healthy beginnings and forward to the healthy future they promise. At the center of it all is the cook, linking into the regenerative and resilient food chain with every carefully sourced, thoughtfully prepared, and delectable dish.

The Perennial Kitchen

Beth Dooley is author or coauthor of several cookbooks, including Savoring the Seasons of the Northern Heartland, The Northern Heartland Kitchen, Minnesota’s Bounty, The Birchwood Cafe Cookbook, Savory Sweet: Simple Preserves from a Northern Kitchen, Sweet Nature: A Cook’s Guide to Using Honey and Maple Syrup, and The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen (Best American Cookbook, James Beard Award, 2018), all from Minnesota. In Winter’s Kitchen is her memoir about finding her place in the Midwestern food scene. She lives in Minneapolis.



Mette Nielsen’s photographs have illustrated numerous books, newspapers, and magazines. A talented master gardener, she created the edible garden for the Birchwood Cafe in Minneapolis, collaborated on The Birchwood Cafe Cookbook and Minnesota’s Bounty, and was a coauthor of Savory Sweet and Sweet Nature.
The Perennial Kitchen

Contents


Introduction: View from the Kitchen


How This Book Works


1. Perennial Pantry


Grains


General Cooking Instructions


Barley


Buckwheat


Dried Field Corn


Kernza®


Oat Groats


Millet


Rye Berries


Wheat Berries


Wild Rice


Beans


Black Beans


Black Eyed Peas


Cannellini


Chickpeas


Cranberry


Fava


Great Northern


Hidatsa Shield


Jacob’s Cattle


Split Peas


Tiger’s Eye


Good Mother Stallard


Ireland Creek Annie


Kidney


Lentils


Lima


Navy


Pinto


Soy


Flour


Barley Flour


Buckwheat Flour


Cornmeal and Flour


Hazelnut Flour


Millet Flour


Oat Flour


Rye Flour


Wheat Flour


Kernza® Flour


Wild Rice Flour


Cooking Oils


American Hazelnut Oil


Flax Seed Oil


Hemp Seed Oil


Sunflower Oil


Pumpkin Seed Oil


Camelina Oil


Pennycress Oil


Vinegars


Fruit Vinegar


Maple Vinegar


Nuts


American Hazelnuts


Black Walnuts


Chestnuts


Hickory Nuts


Sunflower Seeds


Sweets


Honey


Maple Syrup and Maple Sugar


Sorghum


Apple Syrup


2. Milling and Baking


Flour Power


Grain of Change


Multi-grain Crackers


Oats


Oat Crackers


Hazelnut Parmesan Crisps


Buckwheat Crepes


Birchwood Café Sunday Pancakes & Waffles


Cornmeal and Corn Flour


Maple Wild Rice Cornbread


Dark and Tangy Beer Bread


Fresh Herb Focaccia


Barley Bread


Real Rye Bread


Bead is Gold (Loafing Around)


Drunken Cheesy Garlic Bread


Mushroom Bread Pudding


Breakfast Bread Pudding


Fresh Herbed Butter


Sunny Butter


Hazelnut Butter


Hazelnut Chocolate Spread


3.Gardens and Forests


Plant Forward Plates


Garden Perennials


Herbed Dipping Oil


The Basic Vinaigrette


Heartland Gold! Camelina and Sunflower Oil


Hazelnut Vinaigrette


Maple-Mustard Vinaigrette


Pesto!


The All American Hazelnut


Hazelnut Pesto


Garlic Scape Pesto


Garlic Scape Herb Butter & Radish Toasts


A Cook’s Garlic Glossary


Black Garlic


Asparagus


Asparagus Pesto


Asparagus and Radish Salad in Bacon Vinaigrette


Radishes


PDQ Radish Salsa


Many Bean and Tomato Salad


Fennel and White Bean Salad


Scarlet and Gold Beet Salad


Sunchokes, Morels, and Asparagus with Toasted Hazelnuts


Roasted Root Vegetables (with Bonus Hummus!)


Roast Root Veggie Hummus


Sauteed Hukurei Turnips, Greens, and Cranberries


Garlicky Greens


Roasted Garlic Bulbs


4. Fields Forever


The Artisan Grain Chain


Grain by Artisan Grain: General Cooking Instructions


Barley


Buckwheat


Field Corn


Oats


Rye


Wheat


Kernza®


Sorghum


Wild Rice


Sprouting Artisan Grains


Oatmeal Plus


Breakfast Crème Brule


Forever Green Granola


Polenta with Fried Eggs


Cool Beans


Many Bean Hummus


Mini Bean Cakes


Spicy-Sweet Roast Chickpeas


Wild Rice, Mushroom, and Hazelnut Pilaf


Cranberry, Chestnut, and Barley Pilaf


Rye Berry and Roast Sweet Potato Pilaf


Hazelnut No-Meatballs with Hazelnut Tzatziki


Forever Green Grain Salad


Heartland Bean and Grain Pot


Heartland Pozole


Whole Oat Risotto with Squash and Sage


Ricotta Gnocchi


5. The Chicken and the Egg


The Pecking Order


Picnic Deviled Eggs


A Simple Persian Scramble


Crustless Quiche


Say Cheese?


Herbed Chevre


Country Style Cheddar Spoon Bread


Perfect Roast Chicken – The Spatchcock Method


Chicken with Mushrooms, Squash, and Sage Butter


Chicken Liver Pate


Thanksgiving Turkey with Bacon Whiskey Glaze


Cornbread Chestnut Stuffing


Turkey Sausage and Apple Sauté


Duck Breasts with Spiced Currant Sauce


6. Barnyard and Smokehouse


Grazing for Change


Cooking Grass Fed Beef


Cowboy Steak


Beef Short Ribs with Lemon and Thyme


Skirt Steak


Behind the Grass Fed Label


Best Burgers


Back Home on the Range


Bison Pot Roast


Pork


Hmong Stir-Fried Pork with Baby Bok Choy


Roast Pork with Apple Hazelnut Salsa


Pork Chops with Black Currant Sauce


Meatless No More


Sticky Lamb Ribs


Lamb and Potato Suugo (Spiced Lamb Stew)


Goat Chili


Rabbit with Mustard


7. The Communal Pot


Hale and Hardy Soups, Stews, and One Dish Fare


Stocking Up


Chicken Stock


Old Fashioned Stock


Brown Stock


Bone Broth


Robust Roast Vegetable Stock


Springtime Asparagus Soup


Ginger-Maple Squash Soup


Market Soup with Asian Spices


Chicken Soup for the Winter Weary


Sausage and White Bean Soup


Farmhouse Beef and Barley Stew


Creamy Cauliflower, Onion, and Cheddar Bake


Shepherd’s Pie


Wild Rice Hot Dish


8. Sweetland


Nature’s Treats


Double Oatmeal Cookies


Baking Day


European Currant Cookies


Hazelnut Chocolate Chip Cookies


Cream Filled Chocolate Wafers


Shortbread


Ginger Rye Hermits


Hazelnut Fruit Bars


Double Nutty Biscotti


Puffy Treats


Forever Green Granola Bars


Toffee Bars


Triple Ginger Rye Cake


Maple Pumpkin Spice Cake


Holiday Fruitcake


Blue Fruit Cheesecake


Cherry Clafoutis


A is for Apples


Best Apple Pie! Oh My!


Double Pie Crust


Gingered Berry Crumble


Pavlova with Kiwi Berries and Currants


Hazelnut Gelato with Strawberry Rhubarb Sauce


Strawberry Rhubarb Sauce


Wild Rice Pudding


Hazelnut Brittle


9. Preserving the Seasons


Yes You Can (Make Jams, Jellies, Pickles, and More)


Pickled Garlic


Pickled Asparagus


Apple Butter, Savory and Sweet


Oat Milk and Grain-Based Dishes


Rosemary Currant Sauce


Tart and Tangy Gooseberry Sauce


Old Fashioned Ginger Rhubarb Conserve


Honeyed Honeyberry Jam


Splendid Strawberry Jam


Current Jam


Radical Hospitality: The Sister Sisters of Madison, Minnesota


Elderberry-Ginger-Honey Syrup


Elderflower Syrup


Apple Honey


Resources


Foods for Our Future


Acknowledgments


Index